Touch Down in Nairobi (part 1)

Posted on 12. Feb, 2008 by Kerry Banks in Writing from the road

Nairobi I landed at Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in the early morning after a mind-bending 28 hours in transit. It was not the ideal way to start a two-week African wildlife safari, but I at least had a day to recuperate before we were supposed hit the road. Even though my bags were the last ones off the carousel, there was still a large, noisy crowd waiting outside the terminal doors.

I wheeled my gear outside and began scanning the mob of black faces, looking for someone with a sign that read “Kerry Banks” or “Trek Adventures.” As I walked back and forth some drummers began laying down a rhythmic beat. After a few minutes of fruitless searching, I got a sinking feeling. There did not appear to be anyone waiting to greet me and deliver me to my hotel. The hotel’s name—the Jacaranda—was all the information I had. I didn’t even know its location. Terrific preparation, Banks. As I pondered my options, the terminal doors opened behind me and the crowd let a whoop as guy in a white Stetson appeared. The drummers picked up the pace and people began singing as the man and his entourage moved into the surging throng. I later discovered that the character in the cowboy hat was political candidate Raila Odinga, leader of the Orange Democratic Movement. He had just returned from the U.S., to mount his campaign to unseat Kenya’s reigning president, Mwai Kibaki. Three months later, the election, and its disputed result, would spark an outbreak of tribal violence in Kenya. It’s strange how one can descend out of the skies, jet-lagged and bleary brained, and stumble into the storm of world events.

At any rate, my ride was definitely a now-show. A guy with a shaved head and gold earring asked me if I needed transportation. I followed him over to a booth marked “Government Tourist Information.” The woman behind the desk said that she could hail a cab to take me to my hotel. She told me it would cost US$25 and I had to pay up front. I didn’t like the sound of that, but she assured me she would give me a receipt. The receipt was written on Planet Safari stationery–evidently a guiding outfit was masquerading as a tourist information bureau. A couple of young guys led me around to the side of the building where the cab—a bombed out van—was waiting. The vehicle looked like it had been in a demolition derby. I piled in the back with my luggage close at hand. My driver said his name was Isaac, an old biblical name, yet somehow I was not reassured. We accelerated out into a swirl of traffic. I figured if this was going to go bad, it would happen fast. After about 15 minutes, I started to relax. Isaac wasn’t going to waste precious fuel taking me this far if he was planning some sort of shakedown. Eventually, we rolled up to the front doors of the Jacaranda. The day was bright and the air was cool and soothing. For the first time since my arrival, it felt good to be in Africa.