Into the Estuary (part 3)

Posted on 16. Jul, 2008 by Kerry Banks in Writing from the road

We are in a boat chugging toward a group of islands in the St. Lawrence River. The ride is a little rough and the wind is blowing hard, but it is exciting to be out on the open water. A young Quebecois guide is doing her best to describe the setting in both official languages as the vessel bangs through the heavy chop. The cluster of islands, which face the town of Rivière-du-Loup, are part of the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park. Under the protection of Société Duvetnor, a nonprofit corporation, these islands provide shelter for colonies of marine birds and seals and are an excellent spot for watching belugas. Just like Captain Ahab we’re on the lookout for the white whale. Two of the islands are open to the public: Île de Pot a L’Eau-de-Vie (Brandy Pot Island) with its completely restored historic lighthouse, and Île aux Lièvres (Hare island), which was named by Jacques Cartier in 1535. Both islands are uninhabited, apart from birds and seals, but visitors can spend the night at the lighthouse on Île du Pot à l’Eau-de-Vie.

Together, the two islands harbour the largest colonies of Razorbills and Black Guillemots in the entire St. Lawrence Estuary. More than 15,000 pairs of Common Eider, the duck from which we get eiderdown, one of the lightest and most effective insulators known–breed on the islands of the estuary. Interestingly, Société Duvetnor supports itself through the sale of eiderdown, which employees collect each spring. The female duck plucks down from her breast to line her nest and cover the eggs. Once the nest is abandoned, the eiderdown is gathered. It is sold by Société Duvetnor in Europe for the manufacture of comforters and clothing.

We land on Île aux Lièvres and spend an hour roaming a section of its 45 kilometres of hiking trails, before finding a comfortable spot on the beach to enjoy a picnic lunch. We don’t see any belugas or seals, or even any of Jacques Cartier’s rabbits, but the sun has finally emerged from behind the clouds and it feels good.

After returning to the mainland, we travel 110 kilometres to the tiny village of Auclair to visit Domaine Acer, a place that specializes in creating alcoholic beverages made from maple syrup. Domain Acer is an Economuseum, one of a network of 33 businesses in Quebec that use traditional craft techniques and host tours and public workshops. Domain Acer produces 30,000 bottles a year of various maple concoctions including a dry wine, a sparkling wine and two sweet apertif wines, as well as maple syrup, butter, taffy and sugar. The company receives 5,000 visitors annually, which is quite remarkable considering it is situated in the wilds near the New Brunswick border.

Another 55-kilometre drive takes us to the town of Cabano, where we check into the Auberge du Chemin Faisant. The 1950s home, remodelled in modern art deco, was formerly the mayor’s residence. The halls are decorated with the work of Claude Theberge, a famous local painter, who has a fascination with capes and umbrellas. Our hosts are Hugues and Liette Massey. Hugues makes an immediate impression on the ladies by picking up both of Cinda and Joanne’s bags, which must weigh close to half a ton each, and hauling them up two flights of stairs. There are six individually designed bedrooms, each one with its own name. I pick the one called La Verriere, which translates as “the Solarium.” There is a large window overlooking the backyard and lots of leather furniture. The bed covers are silk. Richard is in Maitresse, “Mistress.” The choice seems fitting as during lunch Richard gave us a detailed rundown of the last five French prime ministers and their assorted mistresses.

Although the inn would normally be closed today, the Masseys have opened the place up especially for us. Before dinner, Hugues prepares everyone a cocktail, then we sit down at the table and the feast begins. Hugues describes each dish in English and French. Every serving is an exquisite piece of art. Liette, who is a trained sommelier, matches the dishes up with different wines, which she excitedly describes in French. They have 1,500 bottles in their wine cellar. The food is simply fanstastic.

Although the presentation is quite formal, Hugues is anything but–he wears purple crocs and a pair of Bermuda shorts beneath his apron. After the main course, he surprises us by sitting down at the piano and serenading us with beautiful music. The musical interlude is something he does every night. It’s all part of his desire to create a convivial spirit. As he tells us, “When I begin to play the piano it changes the atmosphere. The women like it especially,” he says. “Usually when the woman is happy, the husband is o.k. As they say, ‘Happy wife. Happy life.’”

I think Mr. Massey may be on to something.

(To be continued …)