MyWestworld

Asparagus Is a Wine Killer (part 2)

Posted on 23. May, 2009 by Kerry Banks in BC

courtesy Kerry Banks

The sun beams down as we proceed to Lake Breeze Vineyards, which I always want to call Lake View because the panorama of Lake Okanagan from the vineyard’s veranda is so spectacular. Still, with 17 acres under vine and nine different varietals, including Pinot Blanc, Semillon, Ehrenfelser, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this is definitely a working vineyard. (Annual production is a modest 9,000 cases, which is fairly typical of the boutique-style wineries of the Naramata Bench.) Backdropped by the view, we then take seats around a table on the balcony as Rhys Pender launches into a discussion of the art of food and wine pairing.

How to Pair Foods with Wine

The main concept behind pairings, advises Pender, is that certain elements (such as texture and flavour) in both food and wine react differently to each other, and finding the right combination of these elements makes the dining experience more enjoyable. No missteps with this demo, of course. The wines we are drinking are provided by Lake Breeze, while the food is supplied by Joy Road Catering, which has earned an excellent name for itself hosting wine-paired dinners featuring “cuisine de terroir” Wednesday and Sunday evenings throughout the summer at God’s Mountain Estate, on a cliff with another stunning view (of Skaha Lake).

As Pender explains, there are three basic methods used in wine and food pairings. One is the “weight method,” which involves pairing heavy wines with heavy food, and vice versa. For example, a pasta with a heavy red sauce would ideally be paired with a substantial Cabernet Sauvignon, while a light salad would taste best when paired with a more delicate Pinot Grigio.

The second technique is the “complimentary method,” which involves pairing similar flavours – such as duck and pinot noir, so that the gamey quality of the meat matches the earthy flavour of the wine. The third approach is the “contrast method,” in which a wine with a high acidity is used to cut through the fattiness of the meal. For example, a greasy dish such as sweet Italian sausage is paired with a dry, acidulous wine, a zesty Barbera perhaps, which cleanses the palate and lightens  the heaviness of the entrée. Pender also recounts the basic rule for dessert wines: the wine must always be sweeter than the food: a cherry port with chocolate, for example.

What to Avoid When Pairing Food with Wine

While the general approach to pairing foods and wine has relaxed, there are still some definite no-no’s. These include quaffing wines that have high acidity – or high tannins – with spicy foods “These types of wines ignite the spices. It’s like adding kerosene to the fire,” says Pender. “You want a sweeter wine in this case, to contrast with the spices.”  Another absolute no-no is pairing a tannic red, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, with fish – because it creates a metallic taste. “It’s like chewing on tinfoil,” says Pender. And, too, there are a few foods that really do not go well with wine at all. For example, “Asparagus is considered a wine killer.”

It’s All in the Tongue

A taste session follows where we learn about “tongue zones.” Apparently the human tongue has “zones” for each type of flavour it can taste, so you want to swirl the wine in your mouth so that it is flows over each section. The tip of the tongue senses sweet, the front sides sense salt, the back sides acid, and the very back bitter. And even within each of these sections, there are buds of different “intensities.” So to practice, we sample different wines after eating jelly beans, salt, tart pieces of apple and jalapeno-flavoured potato chips –  to demonstrate how wine reacts, for the better or the worse, with different flavours. In between, there are also several courses of Joy Road Catering’s offerings (and proving its reputation is justly deserved), which I later realize I have neglected to describe in any detail. Even more disconcerting is the realization that what I have scribbled in my notebook is close to illegible. Obviously, way too good a time is being had by all.

Adding to my confusion is my abundance of gear. Not only am I writing and photographing, I am also attempting to film the proceedings with a pocket-sized Kodak camcorder that I have never used before. The device is supposed to be dead simple to operate, but then I’ve heard that line before. And perhaps because of its supposed simplicity. the camcorder’s instructional manual contains virtually no instructions, its pages filled instead by useless reams of small-print guarantees, French translations and drawings of the various components.

courtesy allposters.com

Our lunch finished, we pile into the car and head for our next destination: Van Western Vineyards, a Naramata vineyard with a tight focus on brands that begin with the letter V. The roll call here includes Voluptuous (a red Bordeaux blend), Vivacious (a white blend) and Viognier, a Rhone white with a powerful, rich and complex aroma that has been likened to overripe apricots mixed with orange blossoms or acacia. The effect of orange blossoms I can guess at, but the flavour of acacia, the thorny, parasol-shaped tree that dots the African savannah, is a complete mystery.

(To be continued …)

Tags: Naramata Bench, The Thompson/Okanagan