As I write this it is early March – and the hot sun streams in my window, made hotter by reflections off the meltwater puddles on the street in front of my house. The first flowers of the year are coming out on the warm hillsides in the valley below.

This is not your typical Kootenay winter.  Maybe there is something to this “global warming” thing after all.

The annual Fernie Powder 8 Championships will go ahead full steam on Saturday March 13, 2010. Courtesy Resorts of the Canadian Rockies

However, though the bikes and skateboards are out in force in town and there has not been an appreciable snowfall for weeks, the high mountains are still covered in a blanket of white. In other words, the skiing is still incredible – and the annual Fernie Powder 8 Championships are going ahead full steam on Saturday March 13.

What you’ll see: On an untracked run, pairs of skiers will ski in tandem to leave as many 8s – or an unending infinity sign – as they can.  Skiers are judged on their style, synchronicity and the general appearance of their tracks. Of course, as is the case in Fernie most weekends, the Powder 8s are the catalyst for a fun weekend of skiing for some, heckling for others and partying for all.

Now all we need is some snow.

Lead photo courtesy Resorts of the Canadian Rockies

 • Eurail
Across Europe
From Bulgaria to Ireland and everything in between, Eurail is the wandering soul’s key to the continent. The number of countries and length of travel determine which rail ticket is best suited to the individual — though with every stop an invitation to explore a new culture, the comprehensive Global Pass is the most tempting option.

 • Great Southern Rail
Sydney to Perth, Australia (The Indian Pacific)
Winding through the eucalyptus-filled Blue Mountains to the arid Nullarbor Desert, this three-night journey down the world’s longest straight stretch of railway track (478 km) showcases Australia’s startling contrasts — from vantage points up to 1,000 metres above sea level. Keep an eye out for the wedge-tailed eagle. The massive avian is the Indian Pacific Railway’s official mascot. 

Snow-capped Rockies, golden Prairies and thundering Niagara Falls — Canada’s natural landmarks are best explored by rail.Courtesy the Rocky Mountaineer

• The Rocky Mountaineer/VIA Rail
Vancouver to Toronto, Canada (Trans-Canada Rail Adventure)
Snow-capped Rockies, golden Prairies and thundering Niagara Falls — Canada’s natural landmarks are best explored by rail. And this 13-day, cross-country exploration includes motorcoach and helicopter tours, national park passes and nine-nights’ hotel accommodation.

• Trans-Siberian Railway
Moscow, Russia, to Beijing, China (Trans-Siberian line)
The longest rail line ever constructed, the Trans-Siberian crosses one-third of the globe and spans more than seven time zones. Four routes connect Russia to the Far East, and though the landscape is spectacular, it’s the eclectic mix of passengers that makes the journey unforgettable.

• Chihuahua-Pacific Railroad
Chihuahua to Los Mochis, Mexico
Known to the locals as Ferrocarril Chihuahua al Pacifico, or El Chepe, this refurbished train follows what is reputed to be one of the world’s most scenic rail routes. Highlights include the vast Copper Canyon, seven times larger than the Grand Canyon; a series of rustic, off-the-path villages; and a visit with the swift-of-foot Tarahumara tribe.

• The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway
New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling, West Bengal, India
One of the few railways that is also a World Heritage Site, the Darjeeling’s century-old engineering allows for sharp, spiralling ascents over Himalayan terrain. Passing through the soaring Mahaldirum Range and over the rushing Mahanadi River, this half-day tour is so breathtaking, Mark Twain is said to have called his DHR experience the most enjoyable day of his life.

• Shangri-La Express
Beijing/Xian, China, to Goldmund/Lhasa, Tibet
According to locals, “Shangri-La” is a mythic paradise hidden beyond the Himalayas — and that’s exactly what this 12-night rail trip seeks. Two possible routes venture to the “roof of the world,” Tibet, with the highest altitude reached topping 5,000 metres (oxygen is pumped aboard). Stops include Beijing’s Forbidden City and the Dalai Lama’s Summer Palace in Lhasa. 

Empire Builder at Havre Station, Mont. Courtesy Amtrak

• Amtrak
Chicago, Seattle or Portland to Montana, U.S. (Empire Builder Train)
The U.S. is known for its national parks, and this 14-day pioneer-themed journey explores five of the most scenic: Glacier, Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Arches and Canyonlands. The route follows portions of Lewis and Clark’s famous trail, with such notable sights as the lazy Mississippi, temperamental Old Faithful and other geological, natural and wildlife marvels of the American West.

• Rovos Rail
Cape Town to Pretoria, South Africa
The five-star luxury of this refurbished 19th-century “cruise train,” which may be hauled by steam, diesel or electric locomotives throughout the journey, is ideal for experiencing exotic South Africa. History reigns supreme: as the train trundles across centuries-old veldt and past ancient towns, its period décor, after-dinner champagne and traditional white-glove service recall the glamour of a bygone era.

• The Royal Scotsman
Scotland tour
Sparkling lochs, sprawling moors and overnights in ancient castles are just a taste of the itinerary offered by this travelling luxury hotel. On-board meals reflect seasonal Scottish specialties (guests have the option of donning kilts at dinner); evening entertainment includes Highlanders regaling passengers with tales of life in old Scotland. 

Recommended: Purchase rail tickets prior to departure, as many countries offer substantial discounts on advance bookings.

>> 4 of the World’s Top 25 Rail Journeys 

>> The World’s Top 25 Rail Journeys (2009)

Lead photo courtesy Great Southern Rail

In search of Obama’s fave White House cheese – made in B.C., no less

by Sonu Purhar

the getaway

For many travellers, the upper Fraser Valley calls to mind Harrison’s iconic mineral springs and spa, a 100,000-visitors-a-year attraction. Yet the region is ripe with lesser-known discoveries. Amply irrigated by the 1,368-kilometre Fraser River, the valley is one of B.C.’s major farming hubs, generating more than half of the province’s agricultural revenue. Perhaps not surprisingly, its diverse mix of fresh, organic produce and gourmet specialties is fast becoming the common denominator amongst the upper boroughs’ hundreds of family owned farmsteads.

The Farm House Natural Cheeses / courtesy Roam Mobility

In recent years, Harrison and Agassiz in particular have also ramped up the local culinary scene with a slew of community events. August’s Circle Farm Tour, for example, now entering its seventh year, is slated to host 2,000-plus slow-food lovers eager to nibble and nosh their way through the local bounty offered up by more than 60 farmers, roasters and growers. Last July’s farm-fresh picnic bonanza, Brunch on the Farm, a collaboration between specialty food homesteads Limbert Mountain Farm and Farm House Natural Cheeses, is another now-annual event thanks to overwhelming community response. Gourmands are taking note, too. Food columnist and celebrity Chef “Dez” (Gordon Desormeaux) hosts pick-your-own-ingredients cooking lessons in the Limbert Mountain Farm tea room, and word of Farm House Natural Cheeses has even spread all the way to the White House, where a platter of the dairy’s blue cheese and gouda was served at a presidential dinner last July by special request.

the hideaway

Along a winding dirt road just five km from Harrison’s seaside boulevard is South Garden B&B. Thanks in part to an unparalleled location – conveniently close to Harrison Beach but far enough away to retain the serenity of country life – the 1.5-hectare property’s three suites and one cottage are so popular that summer reservations must be booked a month in advance. (Our fave: the log-cabin-like Meadow Suite, complete with overstuffed bed, wood-burning fireplace and red-brick wall.) Made-to-order, locally sourced breakfasts are delivered in a wicker picnic basket along with dainty china and checkered cloths (the blueberry muffins are divine). But it’s the hammocks, rock waterfall, outdoor hot tub, private cooking lessons and spa services that transform this weekend retreat into a full-blown holiday, complete with hikes to the cliffside lookout for worth-the-climb valley views. From $120/night. 1-866-796-3048
the inside track

The way it was: The Agassiz-Harrison Museum’s charcoal-black wedding dress and bike-sized coffee grinders (604-796-3545). Java must-hav’a: The monsoon-cured Indian Malabar at the Back Porch coffee roaster and pottery shop (604-796-9871). Mr. Info Stream: Harrison Eco Tours’ Tony Nootebos – a mine of information on local wildlife, politics and history. The hairy truth: A certified Sasquatch researcher weighs in on “our big-footed brethren” – Harrison Visitors Centre (604-796-5580). Reel good eats”: Raven’s, for fresh seafood, hip decor and prime beachside views (604-796-8717).

>>For a spring-bloom roadtrip  in the region: Fraser Valley Roadtrip: Daffy Dally

Lead photo: courtesy Roam Mobility

by James Glave

“If you’re extra lucky, you’ll get yourselves invited to a kitchen party,” Terri Shea told Elle and me in the days leading up to our Newfoundland vacation. “Friends and neighbours get together and play instruments and sing and tell stories and drink. That’s the real deal out there.”

Shea, a close friend who hails from “the Rock” but now lives just down the street from our home on Bowen Island, B.C., had just “Screeched in” the two of us in her living room. As per Newfoundland custom, the wife and I had each downed a shot of cheap rum and kissed a frozen salmon. The coho was a West Coast stand-in for the cod that Newfoundlanders traditionally pull out of the fridge for the ceremony that awards honourary citizenship to those who, like us, “come from aways.”

So we’d necked with a fish. We’d been made titular locals and had the certificates to prove it – direct from the Internet via inkjet printer. But we both knew we were Newfoundlanders on paper only. We wanted the real deal.

Little did we know that on the last night of our future trip, we’d not only track down a bona fide kitchen party – complete with an old guy crooning fishermen’s ballads out of a ragged coil-bound notebook – we’d do ourselves even better. We’d actually host it. But then, we had a little help from Ken Sooley.

[Newfoundland Kitchen Party]

Porch party at the Mouland house / courtesy James Glave

“We’re providing a brand-new concept in experiential travel,” the 48-year-old president of CapeRace Cultural Adventures had said of his new venture, which was just wrapping up its first full season. “We’ve designed a way for people to become integrated into three local communities, and each has a different take on the Newfoundland lifestyle.” In other words, Sooley’s company could offer what Shea’s gag certificates could not – admission to the inner circle of a variety of small outport communities up and down Newfoundland’s eastern shores, complete with meaningful and spontaneous interactions between visitors and locals. Indeed, the CapeRace experience remains unique in North America, delivering an uncanned and authentic sense of place and its people. So much so, in fact, that National Geographic Traveler magazine last year declared it “one of the Top 50 tours of a lifetime.”

The appeal? Sooley connects his clients with “fixers,” the kind of on-the-ground contacts a journalist might hire to establish local sources and get the inside scoop while on assignment in a far-off country. Want to try squid jigging in a working fishboat? Just call Jerry or Elizabeth. They’ll pop over, introduce you to the neighbours – here’s hoping you can understand a word they are saying – and suggest whom you might call and what you might offer to pay.

Hi-fi at E.J. Sooley house / courtesy James Glave

And so, for 10 days in mid-July, Sooley’s company would “embed” Elle and me in a couple of remote fishing villages, some of which look much as they did in the 19th century when the salted cod trade was at its peak. We’d bunk down in heritage homes that Sooley had purchased and restored over a period of several years, one in the historic Battery neighbourhood in St. John’s, the others in the village of Heart’s Delight and the town of Bonavista – houses as authentic as the communities they stand in.

The E.J. Sooley house in Heart’s Delight, for example, belongs to Sooley’s grandfather. It still contains the original enamel appliances and fixtures, right down to the squeaky cast-iron beds and bare-bulb kitchen light we’d switch on and off via a dangling string. Meanwhile, up in Bonavista, the marvellously quirky Thomas Mouland house once belonged to a man involved in the great sealing disaster of 1914 – a dark chapter of the province’s history in which 78 sealers were inadvertently abandoned on the ice floes to perish in a blizzard.

The cold North Atlantic is just a stone’s throw from the front porch of the Thomas Mouland house, but the closest we’ve come to it so far is the “bergy bit” that Sooley has stashed in the freezer. He recovered the microwave-oven-sized piece of ice off the beach some months prior. On our first of three nights in Bonavista, it has become my routine to chip a few chunks off the salvaged berg and drop them in my tumbler of “Screech” rum, which I’m enjoying on the porch this evening with Lloyd – our designated local contact and Sooley’s sole contractor.

“You know, when we was fixing this place up,” says Lloyd, “there were 13 layers of linoleum on the kitchen floor. When one piece wore out, the old guy just laid himself a fresh piece right on top. It took two weeks to get it all up.” Lloyd decided to pay homage to the Mouland’s century-long chronicle of renovations. And so, each step of the building’s narrow staircase now showcases a different pattern of flooring, one for each decade it lay hidden underfoot.

After a few minutes, Lloyd and I are joined by Dorman,* a neighbour from across the street who owns a nearby convenience store. As the three of us shoot the breeze, a grey whale follows suit in the background, blowing plumes of salt spray into the sky a quarter-mile offshore.

Dorman, 57, explains how it used to be around here. “With the winter starms we get these days, you can har the floor of the ocean rumbling and groaning-like.” He wears dress slacks with a starched shirt the colour of Dijon mustard, his hair Brylcreemed back. “It’s like the whole bottom of the sea is roaring and heavin’. Mam said you never used to har that. It’s changin’.”

Bonavista's Thomas Mouland house / courtesy James Glave

The sea isn’t the only thing in flux here on the brink of the North Atlantic. Lloyd and Dorman and I look out across the fields of swaying long grass, past the “flakes” – spindly replica cod drying racks the local historic society has installed for the benefit of tourists – and toward the houses scattered here and there along the gravel waterfront road that passes in front of us.

“This whole field used to be full of houses, see?” says Dorman, waving his arm at the emptiness.

“What happened to them all?” I ask.

“The people died or moved. Thar houses all either fell down or was knocked down.”

About 3,700 hardy souls call Bonavista home today, but like many other towns across Newfoundland, its population has been shrinking since 1992. That was the year the federal government placed a moratorium on cod fishing in an effort to protect those few fish that remained. With the stroke of a pen, a resource and an industry already beyond the point of exhaustion was legally pronounced dead. Tens of thousands lost their jobs. The province’s economy had become so dependent on the sea that many were forced to pack up and leave, an out-migration that continues to this day. Some 5,000 Newfoundlanders still move “aways” each year, including many of the younger generation, like our neighbour back home, Terri Shea. The remaining population is greying quickly; children represent only 15 per cent of the island’s overall head count.

“It was so different when I was nine or 10,” says Dorman. “This here main road was jammed with people, all of them takin’ in the catch, splittin’ it, houses and stores and sheds all over. And this road here back of us was a railroad track. They’d bring in coal on the ships and load it up on rail cars and deliver it around the neighbourhood, see?”

I almost can, though the tracks are long gone. The lane in question – well above the level of the surrounding fields – is more roadbed than road.

“And that old wharf?” The crumbling pier is just over the fence beyond the front yard. “My brother’s best friend drowned right thar,” says Dorman. “Mam says he was eatin’ a molasses sandwich and jumping ’tween the dories. Went right in. And he was gan. Just like ’dat.”

“He couldn’t swim?” I ask, incredulous.

“None of us could,” he replies, then reflects. “There’s a lot of history thar.”

Indeed there is. And without Ken Sooley and Lloyd making the introductions, I wouldn’t have heard the half of it.

CapeRace appeals to a fairly specific kind of traveller, the sort who doesn’t mind venturing outside his or her comfort zone once in awhile. (The folks who were across the street from us in Heart’s Delight, for example, have a habit of setting up lawn chairs to watch the new arrivals. Evidently, there’s not a lot else to do.) But then, the public’s appetite for such raw experiences is on the rise.

“Ever since 9/11, people have been searching for something deeper,” says Patty Morgan, executive director of the Travel and Tourism Research Association, an industry trade group based in Boise, Idaho. “They don’t want the Holiday Inn with the pool and the continental breakfast.” And though he has not heard of anything else quite like CapeRace in North America, says Peter Yesawich, whose firm Ypartnership tracks emerging travel trends, “the appeal of this kind of deep authenticity has certainly grown. And I only see it increasing,” he adds, “particularly among the Millenniums – sub-boomer travellers in their late twenties and early thirties.”

The key to Sooley’s operation is his self-published Traveller’s Diary guidebook, available only to CapeRace clients. It’s a compilation of local lore and essential info specific to the towns on the CapeRace loop – such as the rules of the classic Newfoundland card game 120s – plus the home numbers of Sooley’s local contacts. “The neighbours are an interesting bunch and may drop by,” he notes in one chapter. “Tell Harv I sent you and ask him about the unusual bingo games he hosts on Monday nights.” (Apparently, with help from Sooley, the wiley pub owner came up with an ingenious scheme to bring in the town’s women, many of whom have husbands working aways in the Alberta oil patch: he doles out adult novelties as prizes.)

Sooley has certainly picked the right place to launch his new-era travel experiment. This trip is my first foray into Newfoundland, and I’ve never felt so much a foreigner inside my own country. Our youngest province is a region apart – a time warp to a more innocent age, largely untouched by the soul-draining crush of mass tourism. It’s a place where the culture has evolved in isolation from the rest of Canada, the result of small outport communities that for centuries were effectively cut off from one another by fierce winters.

As for the Newfoundland dialect, it can be as impenetrable as the province’s harsh interior landscape: the thousands of kilometres of scrub and ponds known simply as the Barrens. Then there are the mannerisms. Newfoundland men greet each other with a quick left-to-right sideways nod, and I know I’m starting to fit in when I experience the tradition first-hand outside the Bonavista Foodland grocery. Considering Newfoundland’s relative accessibility today, it remains one of the most unpackaged and unpretentious places on the continent. Yet for all its distinctive charms, it is refreshingly open to outsiders. That reality was only underscored on 9/11, when the small town of Gander opened its doors to the 6,500 unscheduled guests who found themselves stranded here when U.S.-bound flights were diverted by the closure of American airspace.

Catered "Light House" picnic / courtesy James Glave

We caught our first taste of this legendary hospitality in Heart’s Delight – almost halfway through our 10-day sojourn, after three days traipsing the cathedrals, back streets and hilltop cannon batteries of St. John’s. Elizabeth and Jerry, our designated local contacts, were still travelling back from Nova Scotia when we arrived at the charming oceanfront E.J. Sooley cottage. We’d feared we’d be on our own in this blip-sized outport, with no TV, radio or board games, not even a pub or coffee shop to show up at, and rain in the forecast to boot. The only available source of diversion: a pre-stereo record player tucked away in a cabinet and a copy of Reels and Jigs of Newfoundland – one of a clutch of profoundly scratched-up old LPs, the novelty of which wore thin after just a few cacophonous minutes. But then Donna Reid knocked on the door and introduced herself as Sooley’s cousin.

“Say, you know, the capelin are supposed to star’ rollin’ any day now. Would you like to go out tammara morning to see if we can see ’em?”

The capelin are a needle-thin fish, relatives of the freshwater smelt. For much of its life, the species lives in deep water, but in June and July its numbers “roll” up on Newfoundland’s beaches to spawn by the tens of thousands. The locals show up to watch and pull them out of the surf in buckets, either to smoke and eat or dig into their gardens as fertilizer. The roll is apparently quite a spectacle – a frenzied oceanic orgy attended by hungry gulls, seals and sometimes whales – and certainly one of the highlights of the year for the people of Heart’s Delight, population 663. And, said Reid, as luck would have it, the procreation party might well kick off tomorrow morning.

The dawn was just breaking as Reid drove us down a rutted, unmarked dirt road to a bluff overlooking a quiet cove. We peered out through the wet windshield.

Though Reid assured us that conditions were perfect for getting it on capelin-style – it’s raining, she said, and a frigid north wind was blowing down from Labrador – evidently the fish weren’t feeling particularly frisky that morning.

A neighbour pulled up alongside and rolled down the window. “Hey, Donna,” he said, “see anyting out thar?”

“I think I can see ’em offshore, the water looks dark, but they’re not comin’ in,” our host replied.

“Funny that, you’d think they would.”

“Yeash, we’ve got the narth wind,” she noted.

“Yeash,” the friend answered with a chuckle. “The wind we don’t wont don’t even bring the capelin in.”

The following morning, we were about to motor out of the driveway for the long haul up the Bonavista Peninsula when Jerry and Elizabeth – who is another of Sooley’s cousins – stopped by. They’d just returned from their vacation and were hoping to catch us to say hello before we left. We chatted for a bit, and though we’d had a great time in their village, doing not much of anything except wandering the bluffs, picking wild strawberries and taking the odd day trip, they felt bad for mostly missing us. They wanted to send us off properly.

“Can we talk you into taking some moose sausages with you?” Jerry offered. “They’re really, really good ones.”

If there were such a thing as an official protein census of Newfoundland freezers, moose would doubtless come out in the count way ahead of hamburger. The beasts have thrived here since the first pair was introduced from Nova Scotia more than a century back, and hunting them is for many a way of life. The population is now so healthy that the province’s long-haul truckers weld heavy steel-tube grills – called “moose cages” – to the business end of their rigs to minimize the damage of inevitable collisions.

“That would be lovely,” I told Jerry. “If you can spare one or two links, we can probably tuck ’em into the top of the cooler.”

“Great, I’ll just run over and get ’em.”

Days later, having consumed over the preceding 72 hours somewhere between eight and 10 pounds of moose sausage, moose steak and moose burgers, I am sitting out on the porch in Bonavista watching the light fade. I sip on my Screech and listen to the wind blow through the tall grass that surrounds our tiny house and the pop and crack of the ice in my glass that was last liquid around 11,000 years back.

My cellphone breaks the peace. It’s Lloyd on the line: “How you gettin’ on over thar this evenin’?” he asks.

“Very well, thanks.”

“Good. Say, a group of us boys was thinkin’ of comin’ by tammara night to play a little music thar. D’y think that’d be alright?”

“I think that would be just fine with us, Lloyd,” I say. “Just fine.”

Author James Glave

In addition to being a “titular Newfie,” James Glave is also a former Outside magazine senior editor and the author of Almost Green: How I Built an Eco-Shed, Ditched My SUV, Alienated the Inlaws, and Changed My Life (Greystone Books, 2008; $22).

An interview with author James Glave and an excerpt from his recent book can be enjoyed at MyWestworld.com/jamesglave

Listen in on more “embedded vacation” Maritimes hilarity (a little lobster fishing, “tonging” for oysters or moonshine making, anyone?). MyWestworld.com/podcasts.

the rock-onnoitre experts

CapeRace Cultural Adventures offers 10-day, nine-night packages, including rental car, exclusive use of three coastal homes and a custom guidebook. Circuits begin in St. John’s and conclude in Bonavista, departing every four days between April and October. U.S. $1,495 per person based on four-person occupancy; U.S. $2,600 based on two-person occupancy. Kids under 16 travel free. mail@caperace.com

See also: Bowen Island: One Man’s Eco Quest.

Lead photo courtesy Ken Sooley

Most of  have heard of Cirque du Soleil. But what about the smaller – yet equally astonishing – Cirque Sublime? The Toronto-based acrobatic troupe relies not only on athletic prowess to pull off breathtaking performances, but also incorporates vibrant costumes and makeup, visually stunning sets and a heart-pounding score. Shows feature fire, dance and death-defying acrobats for an experience that stimulates the mind as well as the senses. The end result: one of those rare performances that leaves audience members gasping, “Did you see that!?”

Vernon, February 7. Ticket info: 416-935-0037

DUNCAN  February 6, 2010 – Bigleaf Maple Syrup Festival

DUNCAN The B.C. Forest Discovery Centre's now-annual tribute to Canada’s iconic sweet stuff: the Bigleaf Maple Syrup Festival. Courtesy Gary Backlund

Time to slap on the beaver hat and break out the red-and-white attire – for the B.C. Forest Discovery Centre’s  now-annual tribute to Canada’s iconic sweet stuff: the Bigleaf Maple Syrup Festival. The curious can master the art of tapping, sit in on cooking demonstrations and compete for the Best Maple Syrup prize in a contest judged by Vancouver Island celebrity chefs. Highlights: live music and a scenic trundle aboard the B.C. Forest Museum train. (Admission includes train rides and food samples.)

Info and tickets purchases: 250-715-1113

VICTORIA  February 13-14, 2010 – Victoria Tea Festival

Henry Fielding had it right when he declared: “Love and scandal are the best sweeteners of tea.” For socializing over a cup of steaming brew is a tradition revered the world over; there’s something universally soothing about cradling a warm mug and indulging in a hearty chat. And every year, B.C.’s Victoria Tea Festival pays homage to the mighty tea leaf by inviting enthusiasts to sample exotic flavours from around the world, with representatives from tea houses, bakeries, chocolate shops and restaurants on hand to answer questions about pairings and provide sips and nibbles. Bonus: a crash course in Chinese tea ceremonies (courtesy of Victoria’s Silk Road), a silent auction and reflective readings by author Earlene Grey.

Weekend passes: $20 in advance, $25 at the door. 250-370-4888

Further reading: An Educated Sip; Silk Road Reverie

VANCOUVER Gearing up for Canada's third Olympic Games, with 600-plus free and ticketed performances and exhibitions. Photo courtesy VANOC-COVAN

VANCOUVER  February 12-18, 2010 – Winter Olympic Games

The anticipation has reached fever pitch, now that the countdown to Vancouver 2010 is on the home stretch – with Canada gearing up to host its third Olympic Games. After the opening ceremonies (February 12, 6 p.m. at Vancouver’s B.C. Place), more than 5,000 athletes from nations around the world will go on to represent their home countries in 15 winter sporting events – cheered on by lucky fans who have managed to snag seats. However, even those without event tickets can take part in the festivities: Vancouver, Whistler and Richmond are presenting 600-plus free and ticketed performances and exhibitions, and cities across the province are getting into the spirit with their own community-oriented entertainment. Bonus: the Vancouver Art Gallery is offering free admission for the duration of the Games.

Detailed list of entertainment options and venues: Cultural Olympiad 2010 Program Guide, at community centres and cultural venues throughout Vancouver.

Tickets, transportation, accommodation and athlete info: 1-800-842-5387

GRANVILLE ISLAND, VANCOUVER  February 19-27, 2010: Winterruption Festival

VANCOUVER Granville Island’s annual Winterruption Festival celebrates the city's vibrant arts culture – including kids' workshops on musical instrument-making. Photo courtesy Granville Island

Granville Island’s annual Winterruption Festival celebrates the city’s vibrant arts culture with free musical and theatre spectacles, brewery jigs, workshops, jugglers, stilt-walkers and kids’ events (including sessions on crafting musical instruments) – fuelled by  savoury wares and foodie seminars. Bonus: free Theatresports matinees.

604-666-5784.

INTERNATIONAL PICK: NEW YORK CITY  February 26-28: New York Times Travel Show

The New York Times hosts the mother of all travel shows, and in the process provides would-be jetsetters with hundreds of ways to answer the question, “Where should I go next?” The main attraction: 500 exhibitors highlight the world’s top destinations, cruises and hotels/resorts, with experts answering questions and offering insider travel advice. Plus: travel seminars held by industry heavyweights, including guidebook gurus Arthur and Pauline Frommer and Patricia Schultz, author of 1,000 Places to See Before You Die. Not to be missed: international stage performances and culinary presentations focus on foods and flavours from around the globe. And bring the kids along: instructors will be on hand to teach scuba diving and rock-climbing skills, while animal-lovers can sit in on the Busch Gardens’ live show.

Tickets and info: 1-800-322-9332

Lead photo courtesy VANOC-COVAN

Nestled between the Monashee and Selkirk mountains, Revelstoke was once known as the capital of Canada’s Alps – so it comes as no surprise that its Revelstoke Mountain Resort was selected to host of one of the world’s most popular skiing events. The Canadian Freeskiing Championships is a new addition to Subaru’s Freeskiing World Tour – the longest-running Big Mountain freeskiing tour in the history of the sport and one that attracts the sport’s top athletes on a global circuit that includes stops in Chile, Colorado and California. Revelstoke’s 200,000-hectare mountain playground should satisfy even the most veteran skiers, however, while the site showcases Canada’s glorious outdoors – just in time for February’s Olympic games. 1-866-373-4754

VICTORIA January 7-23, 2010 – History Boys

History, sex and anarchy – welcome to grammar school. Courtesy Langham Court Theatre

History, sex and anarchy – welcome to grammar school. Alan Bennett’s witty British comedy History Boys follows a class of too-smart-for-their-britches schoolboys as they prepare for university entrance exams. Taught by professors who hold opposing views on the purpose of education, the students learn to challenge the very nature of their schooling. Bennett’s provocative play comes to life at Victoria’s Langham Court Theatre, January 7 through 23. Tickets: $18. 250-384-2142.

KELOWNA January 9, 2010 – “Elvis Generations”

Slap on your sideburns and squeeze into your jumpsuit: the King of Rock ‘n Roll is reborn at Kelowna’s Creekside Theatre. “Elvis Generations” – a stage spectacle celebrating the legendary crooner’s 75th birthday – features three nationally competitive Elvis tribute artists. The award-winning doubles will perform favourites from throughout the singer’s career; a tribute deemed so authentic that fans will wonder if Elvis has really left the building after all. Tickets: $22. 250-766-5669.

108 MILE HOUSE January 8-10, 2010 – Cariboo Challenge Sled Dog Race

courtesy Cariboo Challenge Sled Dog Society

Dog sledding enthusiasts unite!  This year’s Cariboo Challenge Sled Dog Race has been rerouted to incorporate 108 and Sepa lakes into the racing circuit, allowing additional room for spectators and creating more challenging trails. Also featured at the family friendly event: face painting, auctions, a 100-metre mini-dash for the kids and a celebratory bonfire. The nearby Hills Health Ranch, one of the province’s top backcountry spa-vacation resorts, provides accommodation for participants and also hosts a Racers’ Ball. Details: 250-791-5225, ext 225.

KAMLOOPS January 16-24, 2010 – Sun Peaks Resort Winter Wine Festival

What’s better than swilling the best of Okanagan’s vineyard bounty? Easy: imbibing said vintages at B.C.’s Sun Peaks Resort, named by Conde Nast Traveller as Canada’s second-best ski resort. And starting January 16, Kamloops’s alpine village hosts the 12th annual Winter Wine Festival, where both amateur and seasoned vino enthusiasts converge for a week of pairings, tastings and colloquiums. Bonus: after gorging on regional cuisine, attending savoury seminars (check out Cadbury Chocolate & Heavenly Wine’s sweet treats) and taking part in the winter wine brunch, visitors can work it all off with an afternoon of the region’s top snowboarding and skiing. Ticket info: 1-877-212-7107

VANCOUVER January 22 – February 28, 2010 – LunarFest

Vancouver’s 2010 Olympic Games are also an opportunity for Canada to share its cultural diversity with the world – and what better way to kick off the festivities than with a city-wide Lunar New Year’s celebration. Part of the Cultural Olympiad programming, the free public event includes the re-creation of Granville Street as a schoolchildren-created Lantern Forest; artists from Korea and other Asian countries performing acrobatics and dance; a First Nations tableau of lanterns showcasing indigenous designs and an event wrap-up lantern procession led by Public Dreams. See website for information.

Canada’s first theatre made entirely of snow and ice hosts the Only Animal's premiere of NiX. Photo courtesy Trudy Lee/The Only Animal

VICTORIA January 22, 2010 – NiX

Created for the Olympic Games’ Cultural Olympiad, this frozen winter wonderland – Canada’s first theatre made entirely of snow and ice  – will host theatre troupe The Only Animal’s premiere of NiX, a unique love story that promises to thaw audience hearts. Staged on the shores of Whistler’s Logan Lake, the show follows the adventures of two survivors and an arsonist as they face an ice age that threatens the end of the world, with fireworks, dying snowmen and explosive fire. Ticket info: 1-800-838-3006

INTERNATIONAL: SHETLAND ISLANDS January 26, 2010 – Up Helly Aa Festival

On the last Tuesday in January, the townsfolk of Lerwick, Shetland Islands (off the coast of Scotland), dress in their Viking best and converge in the town square to celebrate their Norse heritage. Holding flaming torches and surrounded by as many as five thousand spectators, male villagers march toward the town’s replica Viking Longship, which builders spend more than four months creating just for the occasion. The boat is set aflame, mimicking the ancient Viking tradition of offering a burning ship to the Sun God. And after the audience watches it sink into the sea, the revelry can begin: a melee of dance, drink and feasts that lasts well into the wee hours. Consider it a Viking-style Mardi Gras. Contact: Shetland Tourism, +44 (0) 1595 693434.

GRANVILLE ISLAND November 26 – January 2, 2010: It’s A Wonderful Life

“You see, George, you’ve really had a wonderful life.”

For a stroll down memory lane, remembering just how grand life can be: the Arts Club Theatre Company’s lively stage production of It’s a Wonderful Life. After watching the uplifting Christmas classic, theatre goers can then explore the winding streets of Granville Island, where Yuletide activities kick off December 3 and continue throughout the season: festive trolley rides, freshly roasted chestnuts, hot apple cider – it’s enough to bring out the George Bailey in even the most Scrooge-like of us. Ticken info online, or call 604-687-1644.

courtesy B.C. Children's Hospital Foundation

VICTORIA November 19 – January 3, 2010: Festival of Trees

Though the Fairmont Empress is majestic year-round, the holiday season truly brings out its magnificence. This year marks the 19th annual Festival of Trees, when Victoria’s premier hotel transforms into an enchanted forest of sparkling tinsel and vibrant lights. Event sponsors are given free reign in decorating their trees – which run the gamut from wacky to work-of-art – and visitors are encouraged to vote for their favourite submissions. The best part: all proceeds are donated to the B.C. Children’s Hospital. Can’t make it to Victoria? The event’s sister hosts are Vancouver’s Four Seasons Hotel and Port Alberni’s Best Western Barclay. 1-888-663-3033.

PRINCE RUPERT December 4 – 5: Winterfest

There’s nothing quite like an old-fashioned community Christmas, and Prince Rupert offers one of the region’s best. The city’s 13th annual Winterfest is billed as a family pleasing Noel, with enough Christmas spirit to rival the North Pole’s. Don’t miss: the city’s renowned Cowpuccino’s Coffee House, where home bakers will be flexing their interior design muscles in the gingerbread-house-decorating competition; a walk around the Courthouse Grounds, where the town’s intricate light display comes to life; taking the kids to breakfast with Santa, then watching him in the town-wide parade; winding down at a reading of Christmas favourites at Eainforest books; and letting the tykes loose on the Civic Centre Arena’s by-donation ice-skating afternoon. The festival closes with a bang – literally, as sparkling fireworks provide a backdrop for the annual Sailpast parade of Christmas carol boats. And that’s only the tip of the iceberg. For more info and tickets: 250.624.9118.

courtesy Polar Bear Habitat and Heritage Village

(NATIONAL) COCHRANE, ONTARIO Year-Round: Polar Bear Habitat & Heritage Village

Polar bear swims are ubiquitous in the winter months – after all, there’s nothing quite like an icy ocean plunge, particularly for a good cause. But what about the event’s namesake? Well, a day at Cochrane’s polar bear facility provides a crash course in the  Ursus maritimus. The only polar bear rehabilitation centre in the world, the Ontario site recovers abused or neglected bears and nurses them back to health, then finds new homes for them or provides long-term shelter at the centre. Here, visitors can also view the arctic natives in their new habitat, and, for those leery of jumping into sub-arctic waters, swim alongside the bears in an adjacent (partitioned) wading pool (seasonal). Yuletide bonus: during the Christmas season, the centre’s heritage village hosts a dazzling Northern Nights lights display December 5, 12 and 19. Ticket prices vary. For more information: visit the website or call 1-800-354-9948

(INTERNATIONAL) RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL December 31: New Year’s Eve

Canucks haven’t partied till they’ve partied in Rio – especially on New Year’s Eve, or Reveillon. Consistently voted one of the best New Year’s bashes in the world, Rio’s all-night year end bash sees more than two million merrymakers crowding the streets and spilling over onto Cobacabana Beach. The celebration starts in the early hours, when hundreds of Brazilians begin streaming to the oceanside to pay homage to the Afro-Brazilian goddess Iemanja, while samba, boleros and choros plays in the background; the rest of the day, revelers party like it’s 2009. To celebrate Brazilian-style:,dress in white (as per tradition), let the champagne flow and keep those hips moving. If you need more convincing, keep in mind that winter is Rio’s depth of summer – and partying in the evening heat trumps shivering in a parka, anytime.

Lead image: Bob Frazer/the Arts Club Theatre Company’s It’s a Wonderful Life/photo by David Cooper

by Sonu Purhar

WHISTLER November 12-15: Cornucopia

For anyone who loves food and wine (and really, who doesn’t?), Whistler is the place to be November 12 to 15 – when the village hosts its annual Cornucopia celebration. The event brings together a Mulligan’s Stew of chefs, restaurateurs, sommeliers and vintners, all eager to share their tips and tricks with the public. Event highlights: a Casino Royale party worthy of Bond; an Artisan Market at the Westin Resort & Spa ( a sampling bonanza); and, of course, sumptuous spreads of nibbles, multi-course meals and after-dinner treats. Don’t miss: the Crush Gala Grand Tasting, Cornucopia’s two-night finale, where foodies and grape lovers can sip and swallow the bounty of more than 75 local wineries. Ticket prices vary; see the website for details.

• FRASER VALLEY November 21-22: Bald Eagle Festival

courtesy Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival

The folks in Sasquatch Country turn their attention to the skies this month in anticipation of Canada’s third-largest gathering of bald eagles. More than 1,200-plus raptors are drawn to the valley every fall by its millions of spawning salmon, though the birds aren’t the region’s only visitors. November’s cool, damp weather coaxes the bulk of Fraser Valley’s wildlife population into the open, including bears, seals, coyotes and great white sturgeon, with venues from Mission to Chilliwack providing eagle-watching opportunities, jet-boat eco-tours and guided walks through ancient aboriginal sites and around the Chehalis River. Fraservalleybaldeaglefestival.ca; 604-826-7361

Also see: Mighty Hawg Daytripper

• REGIONAL HIGHLIGHT November 5-15, Montreal: Cinemania

The days are shorter, the skies darker, the weather gloomier – what better atmosphere for Montreal’s annual Cinemania film festival? This year’s lineup features the year’s best in French cinema – and with some selections playing exclusively at the festival, it could be film buffs only chance to view. There’s a film for every taste, from the steamy biopic Chanel Coco & Igor Stravinsky to the political thriller Secret Defense/Secrets of State. Non-francophones can also rest easy: the films are all subtitled. 514-878-0082

• INTERNATIONAL HIGHLIGHT September 23-December 2, Rome: Romaeuropa Festival

Every year, countries around the world create stunning cultural productions, most of them unseen anywhere else on the globe – but the Fondazione Romaeuropa wants to change that. For more than two decades, the Rome-based institution has presented a multifaceted event showcasing an inspiring fusion of original international performance. And last year its 60 festival picks drew an audience of 60,000-plus spectators, all eager to witness the latest worldwide masterpieces in contemporary art, from hip-hop to ballet to Indian dance – and this year’s bash is already on its way to topping those numbers. The festival is in full swing throughout November; download program and ticket information from the website. +39 06 422961

Lead image courtesy Whistler Cornucopia

by Sonu Purhar

The morning of the jump, I’m peering through the windshield at scudding storm clouds, wondering if I’ll be devastated – or relieved – if we have to cancel, though there’s plenty of time to mull over both possibilities as we navigate the seemingly endless hectares of the Fraser Valley’s rural heart. Two weeks ago, I resolved to start my own “bucket list” – now-or-never goals to accomplish before kicking the bucket, so to speak – à la Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freeman’s 2007 film of the same name. Swan-diving from a plane seemed a good place to start. But after persuading a friend to accompany me and booking with Skydive Vancouver, all I can see clearly now are clusters of moody cows.

We’re greeted at Skydive’s Abbotsford office by instructor Gerald Harper, a leather-skinned Aussie with an impressive 14,000-plus jump record and several New Zealand and Canadian skydiving championships. With 32 years in the jump business, he assures us, Skydive’s safety record is equally impressive.

___________________________

What Harper doesn’t reveal, however,

is that two to three skydivers die each

year in Canada.

___________________________

The preliminaries taken care of, he then ushers us into a barn-like hangar hung with world flags and daunting equipment, where, as if signing on for a suicide mission, I shakily scrawl my name across a death waiver.

Just weeks ago, the now-vacant skies droned with the military and civilian aircraft of Abbotsford’s annual July air show, performing aerobatics alongside the 100-plus skydivers who jump daily in summer. The sport isn’t exactly booming, but in 2007 more than 40,000 first-timers took the plunge in B.C., some as old as 85 – no doubt crossing items off their own bucket lists. Today there’s only one other newbie, and once she’s down we’re up.

My friend Carla and I trek to the middle of the field on which we’ll soon be landing and eagerly scan the skies. A plane shoots out of the clouds; minutes later, something drops and falls like a brick before an enormous pink parachute unfurls and the snapping wind weaves our predecessor through the clouds like an erratic Mary Poppins. We’re enthralled, rooted to the spot. But Harper hauls us back to the hangar for “training”: a two-minute demo of awkward poses practised belly-down on a battered wooden vaulting horse, followed by “suiting up” in bubblegum-pink overalls – tighter than a disco jumpsuit – with matching cap and goggles. Within the hour, Harper and fellow staffer – and son – Jess, a gold-medal-winning New Zealand skydiver, are herding us across the sodden grass to a rickety-looking Cessna. I squeeze into the cramped hull; the others crowd round like stacks of cargo as the plane taxis for takeoff.

First jumps are always completed in tandem with an instructor, but I’m still caught off-guard when, after just 14 minutes of flying, Harper clips the front straps of his jumpsuit to those on my back. There’s no time to dwell on this abrupt intimacy, however. My new free-fall mate manoeuvres me to the ratty curtain that serves as a makeshift door and pushes it aside. I freeze: cold wind whips my face as I gape at endless kilometres of slate-grey sky. Far in the distance, the earth stretches like a strip of carpet.

Arms crossed tightly over my chest, I crouch on my knees, ankles crossed, as if in rapturous prayer (which maybe I should be). Sprawled 12,000 feet below, Abbotsford’s agricultural expanse appears hazily through accumulating clouds, the airfield just another postage-stamp speck in a checkerboard of green. A screaming wind fills the tiny Cessna, echoing my jumbled thoughts, one more frantic than the rest: Am I really going to jump? For one infinite moment, I hang suspended over the door jamb, staring into a vast gulf of cloud; then we plunge down.

Earth and sky fuse. I’m jerked in 10 different directions, free-falling at 200 kilometres an hour. Air floods my lungs, the wind a giant boot crushing my face. Just before I can panic about death by suffocation: a body-wrenching jolt as the parachute abruptly snaps taut – and suddenly we’re drifting peacefully, the dazzling metropolis of Vancouver sprawled wondrously before us. Harper spins us in a slow circle, pointing out the sights: the white dome of B.C. Place, Vancouver Island’s bumpy ridges and, far in the distance, the hulking mass of Washington’s Mount Baker.

Giddy with exhilaration, I mentally scratch “skydiving” off the list. Next up: bungee jumping!

TAKE ACTION

• Skydive Vancouver: Tandem and advanced skydiving; also offers solo courses for those ready to go it alone. $272. Abbotsford, B.C.; 1-888-738-5867
• Pacific Skydivers: Perfect for newbies (half-hour of ground preparation). $239. Pitt Meadows, B.C.; 604-465-7311
• Whistler Skydiving: Soar over snow-covered peaks. $270. Pemberton/Whistler, B.C.; 604-698-7120
• Victoria Skydiving Adventures Inc.: Bonus: ask about the Exhibition Jumps, which raise money for local charities. $375. Victoria, B.C.; 250-655-4434

Lead image courtesy Sonu Purhar

Journey down the rabbit hole into Lewis Carroll’s zany, hallucinogenic fantasy world – Sunday July 15, when the Community Arts Workshop Society hosts its 14th annual Alice in Wonderland Festival at East Vancouver’s Trout Lake. Attendees are encouraged to dress up in their best Wonderland garb, joining forty-plus Community Arts players representing the book’s cast of characters. Challenge the Queen of Hearts to a croquet shootout, join the Mad Hatter for a cup of tea and dance the Lobster Quadrille – then pose for a photo with Lewis Carroll himself. 1-5 pm.www.communityartsworkshop.com/teaparty

Courtesy of {link:http://www.flickr.com/photos/dm-set/3464173554/} dm-set on flickr{/link}

Got a competitive edge? On July 14, Alice aficionados around Vancouver will converge at English Bay to help set the world record for largest assembly of Alices in one location. 1:30pm. To register: www.aliceinwonderlandfestival.com/alices-everywhere-sign-up

• VICTORIA July 16 – 19: 1st Annual Festival of Food & Wine

This new foodie bash promises to be the event of the summer, with a culinary walking tour of the city’s cafe and teahouse gems, a chocaholics anonymous seminar (profiling the history of chocolate-making and ending with a spread of sinful treats) and the provocatively titled Pig and Pinot on the Patio, i.e., the perfect porker-pinot pairings. The festival kicks off with a gala dedicated to B.C. wines and cuisine, featuring top chefs dishing out insider tips (and nibbles) to the rhythms of live jazz. Events priced individually, with tickets from $10 and $169. www.victoriataste.com

• THROUGHOUT B.C.: July 31 – August 9

The perfect precursor to Whistler’s 2010 Olympics: the World Police and Fire Games, an international sporting bonanza that sees firefighters, police and customs officials from around the world flexing their athletic prowess. Held every two years (Adelaide, Australia showcased the 2007 WPFG event ), this year’s challenge will be hosted by B.C. with events throughout the province: including boxing, the Grouse Grind Mountain Race and the better-than-any-reality-show must-see, the Toughest Competitor Alive challenge. www.2009wpfg.ca/

• INTERNATIONAL SPOTLIGHT:  July 22

This date marks a historic world event: the 21st-century’s longest solar eclipse. Just over six minutes in duration, this kind of mega eclipse won’t be seen again until the year 2132. Best location for witnessing this astronomical rarity: northern India, eastern Nepal and northern Bangladesh. What better excuse to jet off to Southeast Asia http://eclipse.gsfc.nasa.gov/SEmono/TSE2009/TSE2009.html

Related Post: Fresh Tracks (summer 09)

Lead image courtesy a_seph

Julie Ferguson

Last week’s 2009 B.C. Association of Travel Writers’ Symposium included a 45-minute crash course on what freelancers need to master to survive today’s “cold climate – the rapid onslaught of new media in a rapidly cooling print market.

The somewhat harsh reality, according to Julie Ferguson (author of six books on writing ), is that electronic media is slowly but surely overtaking its print partners. Thanks to an explosion of social networking sites, fast-and- furious blogging and easy-to-access podcasts, the Web is the central command post from which anyone who’s got a message can be heard. With heavy-duty news media such as the Washington Post and CNN maintaining a steady course of Twitter posts et al, folks are still sipping their morning coffee while surfing seconds-old news streams. And many of these posts – dubbed “hyperlocal media” – feature the grab-and-go journalism tailored to today’s fast-paced lifestyle that’s a breed apart from traditional media fare.

Is there a business case for social media?

The social media stampede is captured eloquently and succinctly in Paul Gillin’s Secrets of Social Media Marketing (Linden Publishing, 2008; $17.95). Complex yet user-friendly, this how-to manual presents a bullet-proof case for the speed with which companies and individuals need to pull up to a modem and start surfing.

“Researchers are predicting that more than one billion forward thinkers will publish online by 2012.”

Online media, argues Gillin, is the “next wave of marketing innovation” for both multinational corporations and self-employed entrepreneurs running solo. In fact, he urges, a company’s viability hinges on it being up-to-speed on social networking and online promotion – like, yesterday. And if they don’t? Be prepared to be stranded in a barren wasteland: according to Gillin, researchers are predicting that more than one billion forward thinkers will publish online by 2012. And with more than 75 per cent of Americans alone part of this online community, that’s a market no business wants to miss.

The Secrets of Social Media Marketing

“A company’s viability hinges on it being up-to-speed on social networking and online promotion – like, yesterday. -Paul Gillin”

Getting a leg up on the new-media phenom

For those wary of wading through tech-heavy guides, rest assured: Gillin’s book dispels with the jargon and makes the labyrinthine world of the Internet – and its billions of corners and niches – not only navigable but downright straightforward. Guaranteed, even the most tech-phobic will soon be checking their Ning status post-read. As for writers keen to expand on Gillin’s tutorial, one website in particular is worth exploring for  suggestions and tips on keeping afloat in the new digital media age.

Meanwhile, Ferguson advises that the single most important step writers can take to stay ahead of the curve is to provide added value. i.e.: make it difficult for editors to say “No” by offering an array of online content to supplement their print work. This includes:

• podcasts
• digital photographs
• links to Web content
• online articles that complement each print article

And Ferguson’s top tips for packaging those efforts?

• animoto.com – gives standard photos video-like impact (users select from various music categories)
• audacity.com – tools for editing and adding sound to podcasts (includes free tutorial)
• Build your own website – “Essential for ‘branding and marketing yourself’ “