World’s Top 25 Rail Journeys (2009)

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TRAIN TRAVEL

And the winners are . . . according to the Society of International Railway Travellers

Background

The U.S.-based Society of International Railway Travellers bases its annual awards on the experiences of its members, writers, editors and staff. Trains chosen must meet “stringent standards for service, accommodation, scenery, itinerary, off-train experiences and passenger enjoyment.”

The Winners

New to the Top-25 list as of 2009 are two routes in Norway and the British Pullman, which completes the British leg of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express journeys between Paris and London. However, due to the recent economic downturn, gone are the GrandLuxe Express and Sierra Madre Express, which ran in Mexico’s Copper Canyon.

Three of the trains featured on this list have accompanying articles by Westworld writers: The Rocky Mountaineer, the Blue Train and the Ghan.  The Sierra Madre Express also has an accompanying article, even though it is no longer on the top-25 list. Why? Its route is still serviced via other trains, and the highlight is still the Copper Canyon – considered the eighth wonder of the world. Obviously, this remains a rail journey well worth taking.)
North America

1. Canadian (Canada)

2. Royal Canadian Pacific (Canada)

3. Rocky Mountaineer (Canada)
South America

4. Andean Explorer (Peru)

5. Hiram Bingham (Peru)

Africa

6. Blue Train (South Africa)

7. Pride of Africa (Rovos Rail) (South Africa)

Asia/Indian Subcontinent

8. Palace on Wheels (India)

9. Eastern & Oriental Express (SE Asia)

10. Shangri-La Express (China/Tibet)

11. Toy Train (India)

12. Deccan Odyssey (India)

Europe

13. Danube Express (Central Europe, Turkey)

14. British Pullman (Great Britain)

15. El Transcanta-brico (Spain)

16. Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express (Russia)

17. Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (Europe)

18. Glacier Express (Switzerland)

19. Bernina Express (Switzerland)

20. Royal Scotsman (Scotland)

21. Flam Railway (Norway)

22. Bergen Railway (Norway)

Australia

23. Ghan (Australia)

24. Indian Pacific (Australia)

25. Sunlander (Australia)

>>A 2010 update on the growing trend in slow travel: Trains-formers

>> 4 of the World’s Top 25 Rail Journeys

>> The A Trains: 10 Dreamy Rail Vacations to Stoke Your Boiler

Lead photo courtesy Orient-Express.

The Kootenays: Eight Reasons to Head to Fernie This Weekend

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by Dave Quinn

As I write this it is early March – and the hot sun streams in my window, made hotter by reflections off the meltwater puddles on the street in front of my house. The first flowers of the year are coming out on the warm hillsides in the valley below.

This is not your typical Kootenay winter.  Maybe there is something to this “global warming” thing after all.

The annual Fernie Powder 8 Championships will go ahead full steam on Saturday March 13, 2010. Courtesy Resorts of the Canadian Rockies

However, though the bikes and skateboards are out in force in town and there has not been an appreciable snowfall for weeks, the high mountains are still covered in a blanket of white. In other words, the skiing is still incredible – and the annual Fernie Powder 8 Championships are going ahead full steam on Saturday March 13.

What you’ll see: On an untracked run, pairs of skiers will ski in tandem to leave as many 8s – or an unending infinity sign – as they can.  Skiers are judged on their style, synchronicity and the general appearance of their tracks. Of course, as is the case in Fernie most weekends, the Powder 8s are the catalyst for a fun weekend of skiing for some, heckling for others and partying for all.

Now all we need is some snow.

Lead photo courtesy Resorts of the Canadian Rockies

The A-trains: 10 Dreamy Rail Vacations to Stoke Your Boiler

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by Sonu Purhar

 • Eurail
Across Europe
From Bulgaria to Ireland and everything in between, Eurail is the wandering soul’s key to the continent. The number of countries and length of travel determine which rail ticket is best suited to the individual — though with every stop an invitation to explore a new culture, the comprehensive Global Pass is the most tempting option.

 • Great Southern Rail
Sydney to Perth, Australia (The Indian Pacific)
Winding through the eucalyptus-filled Blue Mountains to the arid Nullarbor Desert, this three-night journey down the world’s longest straight stretch of railway track (478 km) showcases Australia’s startling contrasts — from vantage points up to 1,000 metres above sea level. Keep an eye out for the wedge-tailed eagle. The massive avian is the Indian Pacific Railway’s official mascot. 

courtesy Rocky Mountaineer

Snow-capped Rockies, golden Prairies and thundering Niagara Falls — Canada’s natural landmarks are best explored by rail.Courtesy the Rocky Mountaineer

 

• The Rocky Mountaineer/VIA Rail
Vancouver to Toronto, Canada (Trans-Canada Rail Adventure)
Snow-capped Rockies, golden Prairies and thundering Niagara Falls — Canada’s natural landmarks are best explored by rail. And this 13-day, cross-country exploration includes motorcoach and helicopter tours, national park passes and nine-nights’ hotel accommodation.

• Trans-Siberian Railway
Moscow, Russia, to Beijing, China (Trans-Siberian line)
The longest rail line ever constructed, the Trans-Siberian crosses one-third of the globe and spans more than seven time zones. Four routes connect Russia to the Far East, and though the landscape is spectacular, it’s the eclectic mix of passengers that makes the journey unforgettable.

• Chihuahua-Pacific Railroad
Chihuahua to Los Mochis, Mexico
Known to the locals as Ferrocarril Chihuahua al Pacifico, or El Chepe, this refurbished train follows what is reputed to be one of the world’s most scenic rail routes. Highlights include the vast Copper Canyon, seven times larger than the Grand Canyon; a series of rustic, off-the-path villages; and a visit with the swift-of-foot Tarahumara tribe.

• The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway
New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling, West Bengal, India
One of the few railways that is also a World Heritage Site, the Darjeeling’s century-old engineering allows for sharp, spiralling ascents over Himalayan terrain. Passing through the soaring Mahaldirum Range and over the rushing Mahanadi River, this half-day tour is so breathtaking, Mark Twain is said to have called his DHR experience the most enjoyable day of his life.

• Shangri-La Express
Beijing/Xian, China, to Goldmund/Lhasa, Tibet
According to locals, “Shangri-La” is a mythic paradise hidden beyond the Himalayas — and that’s exactly what this 12-night rail trip seeks. Two possible routes venture to the “roof of the world,” Tibet, with the highest altitude reached topping 5,000 metres (oxygen is pumped aboard). Stops include Beijing’s Forbidden City and the Dalai Lama’s Summer Palace in Lhasa. 

Empire Builder at Havre Station, Mont. / courtesy Amtrak

Empire Builder at Havre Station, Mont. Courtesy Amtrak

 

• Amtrak
Chicago, Seattle or Portland to Montana, U.S. (Empire Builder Train)
The U.S. is known for its national parks, and this 14-day pioneer-themed journey explores five of the most scenic: Glacier, Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Arches and Canyonlands. The route follows portions of Lewis and Clark’s famous trail, with such notable sights as the lazy Mississippi, temperamental Old Faithful and other geological, natural and wildlife marvels of the American West.

• Rovos Rail
Cape Town to Pretoria, South Africa
The five-star luxury of this refurbished 19th-century “cruise train,” which may be hauled by steam, diesel or electric locomotives throughout the journey, is ideal for experiencing exotic South Africa. History reigns supreme: as the train trundles across centuries-old veldt and past ancient towns, its period décor, after-dinner champagne and traditional white-glove service recall the glamour of a bygone era.

• The Royal Scotsman
Scotland tour
Sparkling lochs, sprawling moors and overnights in ancient castles are just a taste of the itinerary offered by this travelling luxury hotel. On-board meals reflect seasonal Scottish specialties (guests have the option of donning kilts at dinner); evening entertainment includes Highlanders regaling passengers with tales of life in old Scotland. 

Recommended: Purchase rail tickets prior to departure, as many countries offer substantial discounts on advance bookings.

>> 4 of the World’s Top 25 Rail Journeys 

>> The World’s Top 25 Rail Journeys (2009)

Lead photo courtesy Great Southern Rail

Sled Dog Races a Mushing Success

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by Dave Quinn

A beautiful Kootenay weekend brought out more than 2,500 onlookers to take in the action at this year’s Bootleg Gap Sled Dog Races in Kimberley.

Kimberly's Bootleg Sled Dog Races raised close to $18,000 for the East Kootenay Children’s Fund. Photo courtesy Bruce Kirkby

 

“We had three less competitors than last year,” explains a grinning event volunteer John Boucher, “but at least two of those were in Whistler doing Olympic duties, so we can’t complain.”

The event, which included a silent auction, raised close to $18,000 for the East Kootenay Children’s Fund. This money will help cover expensive travel costs for children and families who need to travel for treatment.

The success of this event sure gives the many organizers, racers, and volunteers a lot to wag, er, brag about.

Lead photo courtesy Bruce Kirkby

Top 5 B.C. Golf Trends This Summer

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Good news all round for B.C. golfers

by Jim Sutherland

1. Movement toward mininalism is … minimal

Last spring Westworld magazine published an article I wrote on the minimalist movement in golf design — the trend toward rougher-hewn courses more reminiscent of Scottish links than the suburban country club style popular in North America. Prominent examples include Oregon’s Bandon Dunes, Tacoma’s Chambers Bay and Richard Zokol’s new Sagebrush, near Merritt. However, it appears golfers will have to wait awhile for other B.C. examples, which have been sideswiped by the current slowdown as well as more specific issues. It will be two or three years at least before anyone gets to play Union Bay Golf Links, south of Comox, designed by Gil Hanse (Golf magazine’s current designer of the year); and the design of Blackstone, near Fernie, appears to have been shifted to Greg Norman’s firm from that of David McLay Kidd (Bandon Dunes). There is a flipside to all this, however. Zokol’s Sagebrush was originally intended to be exclusive. But last summer, and again this year, he opened it up to “invitees” (which means anyone who asks). The course is just up the hill from the Quilchena Hotel, B.C.’s oldest, which offers basic but very characterful accommodation at a reasonable price. Playing Sagebrush is a treat, and the deals ain’t bad either, all things considered.

2. Clip those coupons, name that price

Over the winter, through judicious coupon clipping and by sticking to twilight golf, I averaged about $10 per round. Obviously no-one can pull that off during the summer, but operators are getting more and more aggressive with pricing and discounting, especially during off-peak hours and when the weather is poor. One I spoke to for the BC Business article told me “If you want to play golf, we will try to find a time and a price to suit,” which practically invites haggling.

3. Competition from south of the border

One reason operators here have to be flexible is the situation in Bellingham, where the economy is poor, the courses are emptier and the cost to play not much more than half of the norm on our side, given the strong dollar. If border waits don’t intervene, the parking lots at courses like Shuksan, Semiahmoo and Avalon will be crowded with B.C. plates this summer.

4. The environmental imperative

Sustainability hasn’t exactly been a buzzword in the golf industry, and indeed there are more than a few golfers who like the idea that their footprint is bigger than yours. But change is in the air. All the operators I spoke to for the BC Business article wanted to talk about the little things they were doing to make their courses more environmentally benign, though none of them mentioned the much bigger things that are just around the corner. Especially in the U.S., there’s a new mantra, currently being promoted by USGA president Jim Hyler: “Brown is the new green.” Courses are being urged to cut back dramatically on the use of water and chemical inputs, a movement that has the triple-threat advantage of saving money, promoting sustainability and making the game more fun to play, thanks to those fast, firm fairways. Golf Digest magazine has even just changed its course ranking criteria to reward exactly those kinds of playing conditions, in effect penalizing courses that are too lush and overwatered. Golfers: do us all a favour and complain about the conditions the next time you arrive somewhere to find the fairways all manicured and weedless.

Read my lips: No new courses

That’s right. As far as I could determine, not a single brand new course is certain to open in B.C. this year. There are several in the works, mostly in the Interior, and a couple might be playable later in the year, but developers are going slow — very slow — as money is tight and prospects are poor. That said, so many courses have opened in recent years that no-one touring B.C. will feel deprived of fresh experiences. My own list of favourites includes Sagebrush (see above), Kelowna’s Tower Ranch, Salmon Arm’s Canoe Creek and Rossland’s Redstone.

Lead photo courtesy Jim Sutherland.